Journal

Why I Would Go Back to Baku, The City I Didn’t Expect to Love

Every so often I arrive somewhere with relatively few expectations and leave wondering why more people aren’t talking about it. Baku was one of those places.

Why I Would Go Back to Baku, The City I Didn’t Expect to Love

Azerbaijan’s capital is an intriguing mixture of influences. At moments the grand boulevards and elaborate architecture feel almost Parisian; turn a corner and you are wandering through the ancient lanes of the walled Old City.

Then you look towards the skyline and Baku becomes something else entirely — bold, contemporary and ambitious.

It shouldn’t necessarily work.

Somehow it does.

I loved walking the Old City and then emerging onto the sweeping Caspian waterfront. I loved the contrast between old stone buildings and striking modern architecture. Most of all, I liked that Baku continually surprised me.

But I wouldn’t travel all the way to Azerbaijan simply to see the capital.

The real pleasure comes from using Baku as the beginning and end of a wider journey — travelling into the country’s extraordinary landscapes, historic towns and villages before returning to the city.

It is also why I particularly like combining Azerbaijan with Georgia. The two countries are neighbours, yet culturally and visually they feel remarkably different.

That contrast makes the journey.