21 DAYS · THE CAUCASUS

The Caucasus — Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan

Three countries, three identities and one extraordinary overland journey across a great cultural crossroads.

The Azerbaijan–Georgia land border has been subject to restrictions, so I’d plan to start in Tbilisi and fly home from Baku.

Georgia, then Armenia, then Azerbaijan, with a flight needed between Armenia and Azerbaijan.

  • Day 1

    Tbilisi

    Arrive Tbilisi — settle in, gentle Old Town walk and dinner.

  • Day 2

    Tbilisi

    Tbilisi — Old Town, Metekhi, Narikala, the sulphur bath quarter, churches, balconies and the Dry Bridge.

  • Day 3

    Tbilisi

    Mtskheta and Tbilisi — Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral; afternoon back in Tbilisi.

  • Day 4

    Kazbegi

    Tbilisi to Ananuri to Gudauri to Kazbegi along the spectacular Georgian Military Highway.

  • Day 5

    Kazbegi

    Kazbegi — Gergeti Trinity Church, mountain scenery and villages; relaxed afternoon.

  • Day 6

    Tbilisi

    Kazbegi to Gori to Uplistsikhe to Tbilisi.

  • Day 7

    Kakheti

    Tbilisi to Kakheti — wine country, Telavi, traditional qvevri wine and an estate visit.

  • Day 8

    Kakheti

    Kakheti — Tsinandali, vineyards, local lunch and a slower day amongst the vines.

  • Day 9

    Tbilisi

    Sighnaghi and Bodbe, then return to Tbilisi.

  • Day 10

    Dilijan

    Tbilisi to Armenia — cross the border; visit Haghpat and Sanahin monasteries, then on to Dilijan.

  • Day 11

    Yerevan

    Dilijan to Lake Sevan to Yerevan — old Dilijan, Sevanavank and Lake Sevan.

  • Day 12

    Yerevan

    Yerevan — Republic Square, the Cascade, museums, markets and historic neighbourhoods.

  • Day 13

    Yerevan

    Garni and Geghard — temple, monastery and Garni Gorge; return to Yerevan.

  • Day 14

    Yerevan

    Khor Virap, Areni and Noravank — Ararat views, wine country and one of Armenia’s most beautiful monasteries.

  • Day 15

    Yerevan

    Etchmiadzin and Zvartnots — final afternoon and evening in Yerevan.

  • Day 16

    Baku

    Fly Yerevan to Baku — afternoon and evening on the Caspian Boulevard.

  • Day 17

    Baku

    Baku — Icherisheher Old City, the Shirvanshahs’ Palace, the Maiden Tower area and Highland Park.

  • Day 18

    Baku

    Gobustan and the Absheron Peninsula — rock art, mud-volcano landscape, Ateshgah and Yanar Dag.

  • Day 19

    Sheki

    Baku to Shamakhi to Lahic to Sheki — a lovely overland Silk Road journey.

  • Day 20

    Sheki

    Sheki and Kish — the Khan’s Palace, caravanserai, old town and Kish village.

  • Day 21

    —

    Sheki to Baku for the onward flight — or, ideally, overnight in Baku if your international flight is the following day.

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